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Pipe bending

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Hello, I bought some high level SS pipes for my 750 but a bit adjustment is needed to distance them from the side panels and to pull them down a bit to get the silencers to fit, the adjustment needs to be about an inch in both directions. I was going to take a chance and give them a heave, or should I not? 

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I successfully adapted a chrome pipe for my single by heating it red hot and gently giving it a heave! It discoloured the chrome but it polished back up, however the pipe only cost me £20! 
Dan 

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First do some tests on another tube. Practice needed to figure out where and how much heat to apply. Only a small amount of bending each time. Done wrong it will get oval or worse buckled. Bought some pipe of equal size at a car supply. I think it took five tries to figure out which part of the tube to heat read hot. Fixing one end in the vice and a bar in the end to avoid burning yourself. Not much force. The chrome will disappear. Did not bother me as it was on the Manx which very rarely sees rain. If you look closely at the pic in my avatar you can see it under the gear lever.

In reply to by mikael_ridderstad

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Thanks for your advice Mikael, I've some old car pipe to practice on. Luckily the bend on mine will need to be around where the pipe's discolour anyway near the cylinder head

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Hi Adam, I managed to successfully bend my M50 pipe by cutting some sq pieces of hardwood (3) after drilling a hole in them the size of my exhaust pipe, I then cut them in half and using them to prevent the pipe from squashing I found a press very easily re shaped it to my requirements. I don't have access to enough heat, and if the movement you require is not great it worked for me. The wood needs to be if possible quite thick (50mm ) at least.  Good look Regards John O

In reply to by john_oldridge

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Hello John and thanks. Was your technique to press the centre block while the other two supported the pipe either side? 

Hi Adam,
Exactly,   also if the ends of the timber inside the circle you have made are given a very slight radius it prevents any 'witnesses' marks on the pipe. Don't ask me how I know!
Regards John O

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   Adam,hi. in my limited experience, there is some merit in the tale that, with an Oxy_Acet. flame, wind in th Oxy adjustment to get a soft & black smokey flame (stop breathing )to play over th entire area & surrounds where any heat will be applied, leaving a sooty deposit thickly covering th chrome, before heATING IN EARNEST. (OOPS, STOP SHOUTING.)This helps protect chrome from excess heat and wipes off after th operation. 
  If you heat th inside radius of your forming curve, there is a tendency to get kinks there, too much on th outside and edges induces flats Practise is a good idea. or be lucky. . .

Using carbon deposits for heat protection is something I've heard of in industries but your method will be great for difficult profile shapes like pipes. Thanks, I'll give it a go. 

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Barry's plan sounds very logical.  It's hard to find written information about technical reasons why chrome plate goes black when too hot. 
I have one nickel plated pipe (no chrome) and carelessness led to a few miles running retarded.  Pipe was new...and went black.  It seems the nickel plate was oxidising. Very sad.
But it polished out completely.
Blackening chrome plate seems to because at high temperature the extremely thin super hard layer of chrome over the underlying nickel is porous enough to allow oxygen to reach the nickel.  Which goes black.  And the chrome is so hard that it's impossible to polish blackened chrome back to a shine, unless you polish all the way through to thd nickel.
But a black carbon covering the chrome probably protects it from oxygen.

It's got me wondering if it's cutting off oxygen as you say or acting as a thermal barrier. I'll be happy either way if it works. Wonder if stainless steel suffers the same with high heat. 

 



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