Gremlins in the electrics

Hi Alan,

How are you testing the continuity ? What is the resistance ?

Even a weak rotor will provide enough volts to get some light. My standard rotor test is to use a 1/4 inch bar (screwdriver) and see if the magnatism is enough to support it's own weight. Can you try this ?

Regards

Tony

Vehicle Wiring Products do heat resistant sleeving which protects upto 155 degrees C and unaffected by oil and petrol, perfect for alternator leads!

Previously alan_houghton wrote:

Ok Tony,

It looks like it`s sorted,the rotor has plenty of magnetrisity so I foundan old knackered stator from my reject bin, it pays not throw stuff out Eh! it`s 3 wires must have shorted where they come out of the epoxy, causethe hardened plastic insulation cracked etc.Once I`ve dug the cables out of the resin and joined 2of the wires together,pot luck here as which wiresI choseas no colour codeing on burnt wires. New lengths of green/yellow,white/green soldered on andtempory bolted back on the bike,bulb and wires attached acrossthe stator.I then kicked the bike into life,and low and behold illumination,sothere`s nowjuice comin thru and hopefully no more flat batteries.Imust alsosay Ta! to Al Osborne,the fault was found using your info.

Thanks Guys,

Alan H.

PS The name is OSBORN. Glad to be of assistance. Mostly alternators go 'open circuit' very rare they go short circuit as above. Just remember test with a lamp across the alt. and to earth. Don't bother using a meter.

Magnetrisity!!?? can I patent that word? Magic!

Now two wire stators-there is no difference with the wire/colours. Three wire stators (RM19 for 6 volt) have High-GRN/YLW and a Low GRN/BLK and a common WHT/GRN. if the Low and High are connected together it becomes a two wire as per RM21 and there is no difference between the two wire that now feed the rectifier or regulator/rectifier.

Al Oz