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Exhaust Locking Ring Tightness

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Hi, I’m in the process of renewing the complete exhaust system on my 56 99, it seems pretty straightforward although I have a couple of questions that hopefully someone can answer.  How tight do the locking rings need to be?  I have the hefty C spanner from Norvil, is that enough to tighten them? or does it need a tap or two with a soft mallet.  Also I have some tab washers for the locking rings, they are a bit dished, is this correct or have they been damaged in transit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Mick

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I usually re-tighten mine with the engine warmed up - that way they've never come loose.There shouldn't be any need to use a mallet or to use tab washers - provided the threads are in good shape - just a good 'heave'.

Cheers. Ian.

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The C spanner should be enough. Sometimes I lock wire mine. But they don't have the Commando isolatics to pull everything apart with such enthusiasm.  I use copperslip grease to help them assemble smoothly.

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As above  plus it can help to  undo the footrest  silencer fixing and  have someone to  move it around a little to get the pipe well aligned with the head.as you tighten , then I wire them up. 

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I agree with what you say Robert, except I believe wiring up or locking tabs is a matter of personal choice, as long as it works for you.

When fitting a new down pipe to any Norton, I start with hand tightening the rose and run the motor for a few minutes. Next tighten until meeting a little resistance with the C spanner. Then ride the bike for a few miles and tighten some more. After one more ride, with a hot engine, tighten one more time. Then bend the tabs over or wire up, your choice.

I learned the hard way with regard to my Commando. Tighten too much with the head not up to temperature and you run the risk of breaking the pipe flange.

 



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