Dominator88 fork slider removal

It sounds as though you are. The problem is probably that the upper end of the stanchion is rusty and won't pass through the bottom yoke. A wedge in the split of the bottom yoke with the nut backed off often expands it enough to let the stanchion through. Otherwise I find the best way is to remove the top yoke and top shrouds then you can clean the stanchion off so it passes through the yoke. You can also get at it to give it a good whack with a soft hammer - you have to be cautious when hitting the partially removed top nut as it's easy to damage the thread. In any case that only gets you half an inch or so.

The bolt at the bottom which you mention holds the damper tube in place. It won't let the slider come off the stanchion as the stanchion will be retained by the top bush.

I often find that it's easier to dismantle more rather than less.......

The bolt at the bottom of the stanchion holds the damper in place and has no bearing on the dismantling of the slider to the stanchion.

To remove the stanchion from the slider make sure that the fork seal holder has been unscrewed from the slider.  (These can be tricky to unscrew if it's been in place for a few years).

Pull the slider and stanchion apart by jerking them in and out as you would use a slide hammer, this will knock out the top bush and allow the forks to come apart.

Have a look at Mick Hemmings' article on the roadholder forks strip. http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Suspension/Norton_Roadholder_Stripdown.pdf

http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Suspension/Norton_Roadholder_Forks_from_new.pdf

You don't mention if you has removed the oil seal holder. If not, you'll never get it apart. If it is removed, you push up the slider and then fast pull the slider down. Like using a slide hammer. May be needed to repeat a couple of times until the oil seal and upper bushing comes loose from the slider.If you google roadholder fork rebuild, you'll find more.

Mike

Seems Bob and I wrote at the same time. Luckily we seems to have the same opinion. I could add a bit on unscrewing the seal holder. As can be seen on many forks, most people have used a pipe wrench. Sometimes it can be done with a strap pipe wrench or some kind of oil filter tool with strap or chain. I prefer the Manx type which has 4 small holes drilled in the seal holder and there is a special tool for it. Done that to the road bikes too.

If you are not going to remove the bolt holding the damper at the bottom of the slider make sure the nut at the top of the stanchion is off and the damping rod unscrewed as well as the seal retainers being unscrewed.

dan 

You are also going to need space,---a lot of it,  to get the assembly clear of the yokes.

Good NS sliders are rare, our Atlas is welded, not a good job. Can be done much better these days. Can need a bit of machining after to allow clearance for box spanner to damper bolt.

hello now there is no need to touch the top of the fork,s  just undo the fork seal holder with a special tool  once you undo this  and with the wheel and mudguard  removed  you can the use a you hammer shaft or something like  and slot it in where the axe bolt fits  and with a dead blow hammer with is made from rubber or leather  tap this shaft so it  knocks the fork slider down to free up the fork bushes and oil seal but undo the 1/4 bolt under side of the fork legs  in a reassess hole right under side of the alloy fork bottom leg and if any one wants the pinch bolt welding up its around 20 pound to have these broken pinch bolt welded  we have specialist welders here J&J Mallon  engineers  Goole , he did mine and made a very good job of it,  you can send them to me and i get them do for you and send them back to you the owner  if you want this services  now to fit do every thing in reverse  yours  Anna J Dixon 

Thought I know enough about Roadholder forks. So I went to the workshop to fix a bushing and a spacer to get the Ceriano 4LS hub on the 650 line up better. When assembling, the pinch bolt threads in the slider stripped. Which is best, Helicoil or simply drilling through and use a bolt+nut?

Hiyah Mike - if you do use a nut and bolt (even temporarily) make sure you use a washer or two in the space between the two ends of the fork. It is very easy to crack the forks at the pinch bolt junction so the space needs a little filling before you tighten up the bolt.  Good Luck, Howard