Hi,
What is the general consensus on the fitting of primary belt drives?
Clearly it is unlikely that those that supply them would say that they aren't an improvement over chain drive, but what is the reality?
Is alignment of the drive wheels/sprockets a serious issue with machines like a MK 1 Commando, where the gearbox pivots?
I am interested to, if possible, benfit from the experiences of others in making a choice.
Thanks and BR,
Keith
I only use a chain primary…
- Log in to post comments
As RM, only use Duplex Merc…
As RM, only use Duplex Merc timing chain, Commando, T120 and B44.
- Log in to post comments
Belt is lighter which is of…
Belt is lighter which is of benefit to the gearbox as well as overall. And there's no oil to leak or encourage clutch slip. On the other hand, a chain works and, given you already have one, considerably cheaper. Cooling can be a problem with a belt and cutting holes in the primary cover is non-original and unsightly. The 850 Mk3 electric start is not compatible with a belt.
Both are reliable - when properly set up.
My choice would be belt for racing, chain for road.
Gearbox alignment can be addressed by fitting adjusters on both ends of the top bolt. Bit fiddly but you can then 'twist' the gearbox as needed to bring the shafts into line. Most owners don't bother and don't have a problem. Just make sure the top and bottom bolts are fully tightened.
- Log in to post comments
Reliability ?
I've seen more machines disabled at NOC rallies with shredded belts than all the other problems put together. That doesn't mean they can't be reliable, but why do it ?
- Log in to post comments
The only reason I would fit…
The only reason I would fit a belt would be to get a better clutch to replace the crude old dommy one. If however you have spent enough time to sort out the thing and are happy with it ,then no point.
- Log in to post comments
It will transform it!
I can only tell you my experiences with a belt drive on the Commando, my machine felt immediately better with an RGM belt. I wouldn't go back to a chain, as for the belt shredding I'll wager the crank/clutch pulleys were not correctly aligned. I check mine from time to time which is a ten minute job. It has been there 20+ years without a problem.
- Log in to post comments
Only one belt
All of my bikes, less the final one, a Dommie racer, to be completed but running have chain primaries. The only issue I ever had was about 20 years ago when the split link broke on my 16H.. This was found to be it catching on the inner chain case. All in all I'm happy with chain primary and most of my cases are leak proof too. SAE 20 not so common though.
The Dommie racer has an RGM belt drive and clutch but because of the DVLA go slow, I don't know if I will ever get it registered to put on some mileage and report back. I just thought it would be something to have an example of belt drive. But as Richard says; I too have seen a few with 'melted or broken elastic bands.' Still, as a static it wont matter.....
- Log in to post comments
The recently published Heavy…
The recently published Heavy Twins Compendium/Compilation version 2.2, contains a bundle of articles about Belt Drive conversions. It is accesible via the News Section above right.
I have run quite a number of Nortons with a belt drive primary. Had a couple wear thin where the pulleys were not aligned correctly or the gearbox output bearings worn but never had one break.
I found that the secret of longevity was good ventilation for the alloy pulleys (especially on a Commando) and to ensure the belt tension was correct. Never too tight. The latest generation of Kevlar reinforced belts are almost unbreakable.
- Log in to post comments
Went back to chain
My Mk2 came with a belt drive but after is shredded again taking out another new alternator, I fitted the chain set up back on which had come with the bike while I awaited delivery of a replacement belt presuming it had been replaced with the belt drive because of primary oil leeks. The primary didn`t leek so the chain is still on there 8 years later. I think the belts jumped off due to the side guide plates being too small diameter and me not wanting to have the belt too tight as someone I know snapped a crank by having the belt drive too tight. I`m sure they can be reliable if meticulously set up but as Richard says, most primary disasters seem to involve belts rather than chains.
- Log in to post comments
Told you that you wouldn't…
Told you that you wouldn't get a "general consensus"!
- Log in to post comments
Consensus?
I think there is and it favours chains. My garage votes 8 -1.......
- Log in to post comments
Standard is best
I am reminded of advice given by a Land Rover expedition guru. When asked about modifications for round the world journeys he said "Leave it standard. Every modification makes it more difficult to repair". I don't suppose many Nortons are likely to shred a belt half way across Africa but he has a point.
- Log in to post comments
Hi, Thanks for getting back…
Hi,
Thanks for getting back to me on this; sorry for not responding before but I have been away from my computer.
I think for the meantime I'll stck with the chain; when I get everything else sorted and if I'm feeling adventurous.........
Cheers and BR,
Keith
- Log in to post comments
Good choice!
Good choice!
- Log in to post comments
I only use a chain primary drive (Chainman's duplex). Don't wish to use a belt drive for several reasons.
There are differing opinions about belt v chain and you are definitely NOT going to hear a "general consensus"!