Ammeter query

Hi John, sounds like the reverse of my issue, my load needs to go thro the ampmeter , and your charge needs to go through. The charge does not need to go through the psr8 but it does need to go to the ampmeter, assuming that you no longer need the current control switching that the psr8 used to do. I'm probably going to go through my wiring tomorrow so I will see how Idid it (20 years ago). The old psr8 connections and internal contacts are best bypassed where possible.

The black from the Power Box should go to the switch terminal 13 (where the original rectifier went. As it is, it is charging the battery (almost certainly fine) but ammeter only reads what's being used.

Yep as David cooper says, the output wire from the PowerBox needs to feed terminal No13 on the switch. I don't know where you have taken it to currently but it seems you have it connected directly to the battery?..The original wire from the old rectifier was coloured Brown/Purple? and you might find this taped up near to the old rectifier position...Simply connect the POWERBOX output to this wire ONLY and reconnect the other end at the switch on Term 13...Otherwise just run a new wire to it.

Les

I think Johns Problem is that the switch/ link wire /ampmeter connections are wrong.In any case the switch now does no usefull work in the charge circuit and is just somewhere to lose voltage /burn out/ come loose.All its needed for are ignition and lights.

With a Power Box the switch is still useful. If the battery is flat, the emergency setting allows the Power Box to feed the ignition without feeding the battery. Then the battery can be brought back on charge when the engine is running.

Otherwise - you need to disconnect the battery terminal temporarily until the engine is going to have the same effect. That's what I have to do since mine doesn't have the fancy switch (because it once had a magneto and is now electronic). Although bearing in mind how seldom I actually do it, it's not all that inconvenient to disconnect the battery anyway.

All of which reminds me - I need to charge my battery...

While rigging up a feed for my heated jacket I checked and the rectified current runs from the rectifier (purple wire ) up to the ampmeter . I connected into this. Still leaves me with an ampmeter that I can't read as the variable wattage to the jacket is modulated by the radio controler with a pulse action which sends the needle like a metronome! Another re-think.

Hi Robert....Not sure but your jacket thread is here.

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-chat/technical7-electrical/422060851

...perhaps you have posted on the wrong thread?

Les

Nope, John wanted to know which wire to connect to the ampmeter ,it works on my bike. Should work on his.

Most of the above is correct but there is often confusion with regarding the wiring of the Ammeter. This is a way of remembering it.The load (on the system) and the charge are always connected together. The battery is always on its own on the other side of the ammeter.If the Ammeter goes the wrong way then just reverse it.There is two connections that can break this rule (certainly on older bikes) the stop light and Horn both being intermittent (and horn high current) can connect direct to the battery. Don't forget a fuse-stop lights are notorious for blowing such things.By the way the above thread sees the battery going up to 13V-not enough 14.4 is a better figure. Modern reg/rects are very prone to resistance in the wiring and connectors, watch out.

13volts, another good reason to avoid the rusty old PSR8 !. And go directly .

Come on guys! It's an "ammeter" not "ampmeter"!

It's a meter that measures/displays amps.

A meter for measuring volts is a voltmeter, It makes perfect sense.

I think this is an example of a malapropism?