Hi,
I need to re-wire my 1952 Inter but can't find a wiring diagram for it anywhere (not that there's any complication to the circuitry).. My first question is to ask if it would have originally been -ve or + ve earth? And the second is whether they were wired with black-insulated wire throughout or had Norton moved over to colour-coded wires by that time in common with some other manufacturers?
Many thanks in advance.
Nigel
NOC Shop has the harness.....
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Some answers.
The striped colours came in in 1963. I very much doubt that any bike was wired ALL BLACK as that aids confusion. What ever the colours were the chances are that you won't get the right colours neither, In the 50s there were often two shades of RED and maybe two shades of blue. I suggest you use post 1963 colours following the British Vehicle colour scheme. Each striped or plain wire has a specified job, following the scheme means that you don't need a wiring diagram. If you did find an alleged loom for the Standard bike, so many time I have seen awkward things to sort out, which by the time you have sorted you could have followed the Standard post 1963 colours and understood the wiring as you do it. See aoservices.co.uk for a post 1963 colours kit of wires.
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Thank you for the responses…
Thank you for the responses. After a more determined Google search it eventually pointed me back to this very forum where a previous poster had helpfully uploaded the 1938 to 1952 Norton wiring diagram (uploaded here again for reference). Negative earth it shall be.
I see that Norton seemed to use a colour sleeve identifier system - as did BSA (with plain black wire base) up until around 1951. Interestingly (perhaps unsurprisingly) I see that the colour coding was the same between Norton and BSA and suggests Lucas already had a colour standard in play spanning both cars and motor-cycles from the late 1930s onwards (maybe earlier, who knows).
I hope that this info is useful to others wishing to implement period-correct wiring.
Now to find a supplier of coloured sleeves, suitable black wire and other stuff. First call AO Services.
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Positive earth, the wiring…
Positive earth, the wiring is the standard setup for most Magdyno equiped bikes from the 50’s
john
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Submitted by John Doig on…
Submitted by John Doig on Thu, 11/01/2024
Positive earth, the wiring…
Positive earth, the wiring is the standard setup for most Magdyno equiped bikes from the 50’s
john
You have attached a picture of a negative earth wiring diagram.
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1949 with collars
My 49 Inter has rubber insulation with cotton covering and coloured collars or ferrules. Negative earth and magdyno. Replacement is on the cards as the rubber is a bit crumbly. If you are keen on originallity would look for a local loom maker who supplies the aero industry, they still use cotton rayon serving.
Jon
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rubber v pvc
Jon,
As an originality fan that's great information, thank you. PVC (black) insulation seemed to have been switched in by Lucas around 1949 from what I can see. Any counter information I'd be pleased to hear. However, even that wasn't a hard and fast rule as I have a couple of early 50s BSAs which have remnants of original 'modern' PVC coloured wiring but still using braided wires inside the headlight shell (old stock switch panels being used perhaps).
I've settled on 'thick-wall' 1.5mm instrument panel PVC cable (3mm OD) and a variety pack of heat-shrink coloured sleeving as the basis of my 'loom'. For your braided rubber replacement there seem to be some good modern cabling options available to you.
Nigel
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My prewar 16H from 1937 is…
My prewar 16H from 1937 is negative earth and has mostly original coloured cotton coated wires. I think I read that end sleeves were used by WD during the War, which makes perfect sense in times of shortage. The history of positive and negative earth seems confused. Positive earth seems to have become more general in the early 50's.
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Polarity?
Prewar and even up to the 50s dynamo (magnetos) machines tended to be Negative earth. In the 50s BSA ,Nortons (AMC) and a lot of the smaller bike companies went over to Positive earth. Now we ask the reasons for/against the change. I can't find the reason for the change to Positive earth except that the alternator system came out (cars and bikes) about then. Certainly positive earth can cause electrolytic corrosion in cars and was eventually changed in favour of Negative earth.In the magneto (ignition) bikes. The polarity of earth is NOT relevant or of any concern.The Dynamo can be polarised either way round and provided the dynamo and the battery are connected the same way then all is well. Traditional incandescent light bulbs don't care either. The problem only becomes an issue in this modern day when ELECTRONICS appear on our machines, ie LED lights are such, electronic dynamo regulators are such. Now we MUST keep the polarity in line with the electronic part we fit, or we get expensive smoke.
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Positive earth was…
Positive earth was standardised in an auto industry agreement, post-War. It was not universally followed though.
In 1960s UK, a return to negative earth appeared earlier on GM (Vauxhall) products than BMC (Austin/Morris). The change appeared to coincide with the appearance of the alternator on BMC cars.
Both positive earth and negative earth were touted as somehow mitigating corrosion. The evidence of our eyes said it was irrelevant.
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Not so.
The evidence of our eyes said it was irrelevant. NOT so. If you leave a battery connected to a car or bike for any time ie a year or so then you will see more corrosion on the Pos. terminal than the Neg. This is due to electrolytic corrosion. Of course if you remove the battery every few months or even after 6 months and clean the terminals and connectors you will be removing such corrosion. One of the early events was for copper radiators on Pos earth cars to 'spring a leak' due to the electro galvanic action on the copper. Our new plastic radiators do not suffer from this of course. Nor the Neg. earth vehicle.
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They list 2 harnesses dependent on where the horn lives, N3 or N4.