Hi,
Still struggling to remove the ball bearing from the timing side crankcase half on my 1957 Dommie 88. I have made up a stand so that the crankcase is supported with the drive end of the crankshaft just above the bench; heated up the timing side crankcase to "spit-sizzle" hot; hit the end of the crank with a rubber mallet (no good); hit the end of the crank with a lump hammer against a block of wood on the crank end. No good.
So - wondering if tapping down directly on the bearing with via a 1/1/4" 3/4" drive socket (which just fits over the crankshaft and just fits inside the crankcase housing) might be the next step?
Before I do I just wanted to check....that the bearing is an interference fit on both the crankshaft and in the housing and that there is nothing else holding the bearing into the housing, or onto the crankshaft??
Or - anyone else had any similar problems and come up with an ingenious way of removing the bearing that they would be happy to share??
Many thanks.....
The bearing is usually a…
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You do not want to be…
You do not want to be thumping a steel bearing out of an alloy case and wallowing out the housing and losing the interference fit. Put the lot in an oven for 30 mins at 230C and then with oven gloves set it on your stand and the weight on the crank should pull it out.
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John - The inner of the…
John - The inner of the bearing is not an interference fit on the crankshaft. However the outer of the bearing is an interference fit into the crankcase. If the bearing inner is a very tight fit on the shaft and both elements are steel why should heat release one from the other. You are more than likely going to end up with the bearing stuck on the crankshaft and the crankcase free of both. Then you still have to release the bearing with a special puller or a grinding tool. i thought wallowing is what hippos do in mud................. I have done hundreds without any evidence of wallowing. Good luck, Aston and mind the hippos !
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If the outer had been…
If the outer had been spinning in the case, it might well be glued in with Loctite Bearing Fit (or similar). Heat softens it.
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Thank you all. Very much…
Thank you all. Very much appreciated.......and were I a hippo I would love to be wallowing in some lovely cool mud at the moment!
Interesting to know that the bearing is (should be) a tight sliding fit on the crankshaft. I guess that means that normally the crank will come out of the timing side ball bearing, leaving the bearing in position in the case.
One important question - you mention temperatures of 230 - 250 deg. I guess this is F and not C??? I thought you should not heat bearings to more than about 150C or they could be damaged??
My secondary problem is that I am unlikely to persuade Dearly Beloved to allow me to put engine crankcases in her oven. It's going to have to be the trusty blowtorch and some kind of temperature indicator so I don't overheat it all.
I wish there were some kind of calibration of "a good thump". I am probably being much too cautious but the thought of hitting crankshafts in alloy housings with a substantial hammer (even with lump of aluminium sandwiched between the two - fills me with dread!
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Bearing removal problems
Hi Aston , one simple thought having looked at your set up in photo2 . I think a lot of force is being dissipated by the wood in the support flexing and taking the woomph out of the thump . Maybe needs to be metal with some thin cardboard protecting the faces . Hope this simple idea is helpful, Best of luck
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C not F and the bearing is…
C not F and the bearing is made from steel so no effect and any alloy heat treatment in the case is also not affected. Blowtorch will not give the confidence the whole casing is up to temp, if you just heat around the bearing then the warm alloy just moves inwards as its surrounded by cold alloy.
Oil will be burnt so plenty of ventilation, give SWMBO the credit card and tell her to go shopping for 3 or 4 hours. The smell of burnt oil should be mostly gone after that time, a burnt piece of toast will cover the rest.
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Infrared hand held…
Infrared hand held thermometers are good and cheap. And handy in the home anyway.
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The 'thump' is by dropping…
The 'thump' is by dropping the crank case flat onto a flat surface. Not hitting anything with a hammer.
The books say "do not drill the case flange and drift it out from behind". But perhaps needs must? Has it been staked or glued in place to prevent spinning?
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The bearing is usually a tight sliding-fit on the crankshaft and the crankshaft usually comes out with a good thump with a substantial metal hammer against a soft metal (say aluminium) dolly between the shaft. The bearing usually needs about 250 deg in an oven and it usually drops out under its own weight. However if an adhesive has been employed it mat need a thump against a large socket. Good luck, Howard