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Primary oil

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I am looking at a non slippy oil to avoid clutch slip , I have used basic 20/50 and ATF but there is ATF and ATF. I have tried type F but it’s far too slippy  and not like the ATF I remember, perhaps I am missing something? 

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I think you have the right idea, Robert.

I was buying 1 Ltr SEA 20 while I could get it.

My oil Lady tells me she can only get SEA 20 from Morris / Golden film in 5 Ltrs

I do buy Castrol SAE 30 for when I run out and to thin the engine oil  when the Global warming comes back next Winter. Stay clear of anything synthetic......

I remember Anna talking about some Harley Davidson oil for the job?

Where is Anna?  been a ling time........

Charlie B might wish to make a comment about this kind of lube.

In reply to by neil_wyatt

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Anna is not having a good year and recently things have gone from bad to very worse.

She started the year by becoming very ill and in recent months has been given notice to quit her current residence...... Lock, stock and motorcycles.  Which is not going to be easy as she has   shedfuls of gear to shift and not a wide range of options in respect of finding a new home for all of her possessions.

She rang me a few days ago to say that the local Council had not been a great help. There being a shortage of accommodation on the market. 

 

In reply to by neil_wyatt

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What I was told is that she was rather upset about her suspension from the Club forum, and decided to leave.  Hearing that she is unwell and having to move house is not good news. 

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I recently read ( on a website I can't find again ) that an oil spec of JASO-MA or JASO MA-2 is OK for wet clutches. 

JASO-MB is a no no as it is one of the lowest friction rate oils.

Shell Rotella is apparently good for wet clutches, used to be quite cheap too.

I always use Shell Advance ASX (was VSX), 10/40, it's motorbike specific ,my VFR750 has done 87,000 miles on it (changed every 4000) and the engine and clutch are original and in excellent order. Spec is JASO MA-2.

My personal preference, no guarantee it works for you !

Regards all.....

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I have found some 30 lawnmower oil , probably pretty basic stuff should work . I could mix in some parafin as there is no alternator making sparks . 

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The bike I am working on  has a clutch material specifically designed to be a dry clutch ! , a bit like Nortons but more so. And no suitable replacements ( lately I am often working on something unusual). I may have to resort to an occasional splurge of chain spray only.  There must be a fluid out there  that will not be too bad for clutches , perhaps 5 or 10 grade fork oil ?.or  jack oil,  Coconut cooking oil ,   May try extra virgin olive oil !!. Getting desperate if I have to rely on getting hands on something virgin.

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How about an oil that is recommended for oil-immersed brakes? No anti-friction additives. Well, that's what big tractors have. Tractor universal 10w-30 is a diesel engine oil, a hydraulic oil and used for these oil-immersed brakes. Hence the name tractor universal.

It works for my bikes in primary chaincases and forks as well as an engine oil for horticultural machinery and not least my tractors.

What's more, it's cheap. Available at any agricultural machinery dealers plus on-line.   

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I think you have struck gold there Gordon.  The magic word is CHEAP ! ,   Must be worth a try. The Friction plates are full disc  circle and i am thinking of trying some radial cutting to remove material which could provide a pathway for oil to be centrifuged off and may increase the clamping pressure with the reduced surface area.  I have a gallon of 30 w Briggs and Stratton lawnmower oil , perhaps mix with 50% paraffin ?.

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The oil Anna recommended was Lucas primary chain oil, seems to do what it’s name implies, I use it with no problems in 2 Norton’s and 1 BSA primary chaincase.

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Another vote for Lucas - used for some time on a 99.

It is maybe an obvious point, but don't overfill if you want to minimise the chances of clutch slip. I use a cheap endoscope through the inspection hole to check I am just wetting the chain, for the main reason that my chain-case oil level screw can't be used without swinging the exhaust downpipe out of the way which I would rather not do due to laziness and having to go through the re-tightening process for the umpteenth time with the rose nuts.

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I see that cheap endoscopes can be had for under £10 for Android phones.  Do they have enough resolution?

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Just in answer to Paul's question, yes the resolution is pretty good. Mine was £20 brand new from eBay a few years ago and includes a LED. I use it with an Android phone. More than adequate to see clearly into the chaincase.

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Recently set up with a 530 primary chain and "chain spray" on departure.... seems ok so far.

 

J

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I stand behind what I said before, however there have been some good alternatives  made.

Finding out  that Anna has not been well for a while, while the Club and her Council have not been helpful from what I gather, humanity appears to have taken a nose dive these past 3 years. I have been Lib Doomed from my Council seat I held as an Independent these past 12  years,  But Lucas / HD was indeed the Primary oil Anna mentioned. I'd like to talk more about Councils / Corporations but this is not the place for it.....

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Hi Robert

Back in the day, as we say, Dexron 11 ATF was recommended.  Can't find it now. Have used Castrol TQF 1747 and now  got some pink TEK trans oil ATF Dexron. Seems to be working OK. 

I was told to avoid any yellow auto trans fluid but can't remember why. Stick to pink.

Let us know how you get on with your new choice.

Tim

Hi Tim,  bought some ATF type F thinking it was what I used before , but it is thick and very slippy , so not any use . An old container of Dextron 11. Seems to be more like it ,thin and watery. Where are the oil experts when you need them !!!. 

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Hi Robert

There are a few suppliers of Lucas HD Primary Chaincase Oil recommended for Harley D on the www. Notably Ebay

That seems to be the popular one at the moment. I'll try it when my stocks are used.

Tim

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We are getting the synthetic (dry clutch only) linings machined off and cork linings bonded on. Not cheap but thats how they were orriginally designed and made. Sometimes the old ways are best.

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Hi Robert,

NO, or if you like, net Zero synthetic oil in any of my Norton primary chain cases.

I'm almost out of Millers SEA 20 so I may have to try the net and that might mean having to use a card. (Track & trace ect)  Failing that I'll go for Anna's recommendation..

BTW, some original service docks state 'Castrol light.' Unlike the WD 16h SEA 50.....

I did ask ask in my first response for Charlie B to comment.

And Tim, ST 90 appears to be the popular classic G/box choice at the moment & that too was Anna's first choice but a different topic.

 

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Hi Neil

I fear opening a can of worms on the subject of oil, but go with the modern recommendation s by the people who still ride.

My understanding is:

Above 10deg' C, EP 90 or ST 90

Have just been confusing myself with info on the www, eg Fuchs Silkolene ST90, not EP but has EP components. Anyone that can explain, please?

Below 10 deg' C, SAE 50, for the all year round riders.

What is the latest thinking?

Tim

 



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