Taken the mag to bits . It does spark but feels a little rough . Shimming too tight , will need a thicker end shim . Also no carbon brush under the points plate , something missing?? Or does the manual mag not have one ? Going to convert to an auto advance if not too difficult.
Hello again Robert - the…
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K2FC-auto/man.
Hi Robert & Howard. My first SS auto-adv. would slip on th mag. shaft, need re-timing at about 1,000 miles. l fitted an earlier mag. K2F from a '55 Dom, with manual cable and th auto Adv, to use th bar-end adjustment to keep in tune when th bike was harder to start. Yes, good luck Howard. .
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Mag
Hi Howard, Recently dug up your articles on Production Racers , very detailed and interesting, if you would like to see how the 650 is progressing i can send photos to a phone or E mail , P M me. Yes I have mag spares , hi Barry , sounds like you are saying you you had both manual and auto advance fitted together , most unusual !!.
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If the manual setup is fixed…
If the manual setup is fixed on the sweet spot at full advance, there's no reason not to simply add an auto advance unit. If you can find one. I believe Triumph ones are not too difficult to find but operate in the opposite direction? Might be wrong.
The earth brush in the centre of the end cap is the only way to stop the engine when you have a Twin without the decompression lever usually fitted to a Single. Otherwise you'd have to stall it against the clutch or turn off the fuel tap and wait.
in theory, a bike should start more easily with auto advance because the mag fires at the same spot regardless of the timing. It would be interesting to fit an auto advance to my Inter, but there isn't enough space on the Singles. Same applies for your Rudge?
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Hi David,to have both…
Hi David,to have both systems operating on one mag surely the manual would be set at retard so that the auto handles the advance? this would then give the rider the opportunity to give more advance if needed . Cant really see any point though. As you say its likely the auto system was favoured for the PR bike because of the consistent mag internal timing efficiency ,but having a reliable tickover would be usefull for push starts ,rider changes,refuelling and one less thing for the rider to consider . Rudge in deep hibernation with suspect main bearing .
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"to have both systems…
"to have both systems operating on one mag surely the manual would be set at retard"
Definitely not! The movable cam ring would be in it's advanced position in the housing, so that the spark is strong.
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The magneto sparks at the…
The magneto sparks at the point where the contact breaker separates. This strongest spark is when the magnetic field collapses before it builds up again to the opposite polarity after the armature turns another 180 degrees. This point is usually arranged to be when the contact breaker is rotated to the full advance position. If it is fixed at full retard, it will stay there forever and be at a weaker magnetic field point and give a weaker spark forever. This is the problem with manual magneto. The automatic advance doesn't alter the relationship between the contact breaker and the magnetic field, so it always gives the strongest possible spark regardless of timing.
I don't know why they don't arrange it to give the best spark when at least part retarded, to make it easier to start. The reason must be to get the best performance out of the magneto when on the road.
I understand the ignition issue with Vincent twins is that the magneto sparks better on one cylinder than on the other. This is because the best spark positions are 180 degrees apart, but a V twin sparks at some odd angle. So only one cylinder sees the 'best' spark, and they tend to fire up on that 'best' cylinder. Perhaps an owner might confirm?
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Of course , sorry brain fart…
Of course , sorry brain fart ! Won't be trying that ! . Mag will give 5mm blue sparks at hand turning speed so can't be bad , will consider an easy cap and re magnitise so feeble legs can manage for a few more years .
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Hello again Robert - the later steel points plate don't have the carbon earthing brush like the brass ones from earlier bikes. So I presume that they aren't really necessary. To convert it you'll need to remove the cable and fit a modified bolt into the cable orifice to keep the cam ring in a fixed position. There again you could remove the cam ring and fit one from an auto mag. I am sure you'll have one somewhere in you stash. Good luck Howard