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Upright gearbox gear ratio hep?

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Gents,

I recently picked up a spare upright gearbox from a local Brit bike dealership. The owner could not recall what it came off but had been laying around for years...it cleaned up well.

My question being, what the gear ratio is?

main axle sliding pinion 8607 20 teeth.

low gear/kick start gear 8608 34 teeth

main axle free pinion 8040 18 teeth

layshaft sliding pinion 8041 24 teeth

main axle sliding pinion 8036 22 teeth

layshaft free pinion 8037 20 teeth

main gear wheel 8034 24 teeth

layshaft pinion 8035 18 teeth 

gearbox sprocket 16 tooth--I see others at 19 teeth?

box number E 1 N8001 no other numbers

I would like to eventually run on my bike if needed but have had no luck finding much as for what it came off of and what would be needed To run the bike 55-60 mph. Box would be a spare for my 46 model 18.

Thanks much.

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Dear Nathan,
    British motorcycle gearboxes have top gear with input and output locked together 1 to 1.
The intermediate ratios could vary within limits, hence close ratio for racing and wide for trials. If your spare box selects all gears and has same case as existing one ( check width of lugs ) then all you really need to do is have same size sprocket as your existing one. This will give same top gear.
No doubt someone will have data as to what box came off, likewise what gearbox sprocket your bike had on when it left the factory.
Regards Martin

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If 1st gear (kick start) pair are 34 teeth and 20 teeth, that would make it the unusual 'Daytona' first gear.  Which was used in kick start post war Manx boxes for Daytona sand racing (and incidentally makes the close ratio Inter box kick start box more usable on the road by shorting the otherwise big jump from 1st to 2nd) . Normal Norton box gear pairs all add up to 42 teeth but the Daytona pair uses smaller teeth and add up to 52 instead.

The rest of your gears as as standard road bike ratios.

Your ratios are 2.27, 1.78, 1.21, 1.00

Standard ratios (for comparison) are 2.97, 1.78, 1.21, 1.00

So you have the rather rare 1st gear pair in an otherwise standard box.  It should be absolutely fine for a  Model 18, although you will find 1st gear much higher than normal.  You might find sharp uphill hairpin bends a bit more challenging than you might like.  And certainly don't tow a sidecar or go far off road.  You might be better off buying the standard first gear pair (RGM has them) and offsetting the cost by selling your Daytona pair.  (RGM also have them).  Otherwise you could lower the gearing, but of course that would make top gear work more stressful.
 

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Thank you both for the replies and the information. As for keeping the current gears, I think I would just go ahead and keep it the way it is. I live in Nebraska where the roads are long and boring and do require a more modest 55-65 mph range. Now, should I keep the 16 tooth sprocket or jump up a tooth or three to the 19? Sorry I'm not good with ratios;)
 

Thanks much.

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Pages 40/41 gives good data on gears leaves and ID's
if your not familiar click on LIBRARY on our header, choose online content, scrol down to Singles Compendium and turn to page 40
 great document !
Jon

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You posted before, I believe.  Certainly I'd go bigger.  The 16 was probably for side car use.  Or very steep hills...

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Hi Nathan,

    I agree with all the previous comments, especially the Daytona bottom gear which will need lots of clutch slipping in heavy traffic or a pain if there are any steep hill starts. The standard solo sprockets for your bike are 20T engine, 42T clutch, 19T gearbox and 42T rear wheel which gives a top gear ratio of 4.64 to 1. This will give you a top speed of around 80mph under good conditions and a properly running engine, so 60mph cruising should be a good target speed. Later rear wheel sprockets are 43T which does not make much difference at 4.75 to 1. The 16T gearbox sprocket was used on the 500T trials machines and, I think, WD Big 4 sidecar outfits. On long open roads you could go to 21T engine OR a 20T gearbox for a slight over gear, but you might have to drop to third on up-climbs. First, check the engine performance is up to scratch.

   

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Once again, thank you all for the info and technical advice. Once I get it in the bike I will take it for a ride and see how it feels and make changes from there. One thing I did not mention, is the lay shaft for the box I asked you all about is definitely thicker than the one that is currently in the bike now.

thanks again.

Cheers.

Nate.

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Hi again Nathan,

    I think the layshaft is from a racing doll's head 'box which has no kickstart so the shaft runs in a bearing in the flat racing end cover. The road spec layshaft runs in the bush inside the kickstart axle shaft. Let us know how your first test runs go.

 



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