Is it possible to remove the swinging arm without removing the clutch and inner clutch case please>
Cheers
Chris
In theory yes, but in prac…
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Previously wrote: In theor…
Previously wrote:
In theory yes, but in practice it's a bit of a fiddle, not least putting the end cap back on again.
If your spindle is par for the course and difficult to remove, you'll be stuck with trying to pull it out which brings a limited chance of success. You'll then wish that the rear wheel was still in as jamming the brake on is the easiest method of holding everything whilst you undo the engine sprocket nut and then clutch.
To be honest, on an unknown bike that you haven't rebushed before, you really ought to dismantle the primary and be prepared to remove the complete cradle and arm from the bike. Sometimes it's the easiest way.
While you're at it, you can for safety's sake, replace the gearbox layshaft bearing as well.
Hi Richard, phew, thanks for the advice. I had been reading dismantling instructions from the manual which don`t suggest removing the primary,so, I`m glad I sought club memberadvice.
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Previously wrote: In theor…
Previously wrote:
In theory yes, but in practice it's a bit of a fiddle, not least putting the end cap back on again.
If your spindle is par for the course and difficult to remove, you'll be stuck with trying to pull it out which brings a limited chance of success. You'll then wish that the rear wheel was still in as jamming the brake on is the easiest method of holding everything whilst you undo the engine sprocket nut and then clutch.
To be honest, on an unknown bike that you haven't rebushed before, you really ought to dismantle the primary and be prepared to remove the complete cradle and arm from the bike. Sometimes it's the easiest way.
While you're at it, you can for safety's sake, replace the gearbox layshaft bearing as well.
What special tools fordismantling the clutch; clutch locking tool (061015) and engine sprocket puller (064297)?
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You'llDEFINITELY need a c…
You'llDEFINITELY need a clutch spring decompressor tool, a clutch hub extractor and a puller to remove the rotor as well. It's never a simple job working on bikes! I'vebuilt upa separate tool box full of special Triumph, Norton & universal tools, some that I've made or converted myself. To lock the clutch, you can get away with a piece of mild steel (from memory mine is about 2" square, 10 or 12 guage) - that'll save you a few quid.
About that original crappy pin and end plates that is supposed to keep the oil in the swinging arm. Well I'd advise you to chuck that in the bin straight-away mate. I designed and had a st/st replacement made many years ago. The 1/8" thick end plates are shouldered and the new 1/8" pin has a nut at each end and fibre washers. Theoff-sideend plate is fitted with a lock-on oil nipple. This design doesn't distort and leak like the Norton one. Pity the crankcases aren't quiteso easy to reform!
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In theory yes, but in practice it's a bit of a fiddle, not least putting the end cap back on again.
If your spindle is par for the course and difficult to remove, you'll be stuck with trying to pull it out which brings a limited chance of success. You'll then wish that the rear wheel was still in as jamming the brake on is the easiest method of holding everything whilst you undo the engine sprocket nut and then clutch.
To be honest, on an unknown bike that you haven't rebushed before, you really ought to dismantle the primary and be prepared to remove the complete cradle and arm from the bike. Sometimes it's the easiest way.
While you're at it, you can for safety's sake, replace the gearbox layshaft bearing as well.