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Model 50

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My recently purchased m50 appears rather slow compared to the one I had in 1977.

I appreciate that time plays tricks with the mind plus I am porkier than I was then,however I am disappointed with the 46mph cruise.

It will go faster,I saw 60 once,but I feel that I am thrashing it.

Compression is good,it starts first kick and mpg appears ok.

Am I simply expecting too much or should I just treat it with less respect?

Any observations would be welcome. I am a new member returning to the fold after 38yrs absence fron Norton ownership.

My mechanical skills are good and I have workshop equipment eg lathe,mill,tig,mig etc..not that they help with this problem..just to advise that I do know my way around bikes.

Thanks in advance.

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Hi John

You could try checking the main jet size/needle position. Do have the data for the correct size? A quick search on the web should give it to you.

Welcome back!

George

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Yes thank you George I have the info and had checked that. The previous owner has fitted a 210 main jet.He felt it improved things somewhat.

I cannot change to standard as I destroyed my stock of old jets modifying them to make an old B&B carb work on my 24 Enfield.

If I rev hard through the gears the M50 gets up to 55/60 but soon drops back to 45 or less when in top.

On a dual carriageway it builds to 55/60 once again and holds it until an incline arrives.

I seem to recall my old 59 version would hold 55 quite easily..but I am 4 Stone heavier nowadays!

I will try the standard main jet once I get one but from the plug colour I do not expect any real change.

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Try a leakdown test to check the effectiveness of valve seat sealing, piston rings to bore sealing and cylinder head to cylinder seal.

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Simon,

I cannot currently do that as I only have a compression guage of the push in type..I keep meaning to adapt a hydraulic hose to fit to it permanently.

Compression is very good.I can stand on tbe kickstart and it holds me for around 8 seconds so I doubt the rings are worn.

I am tempted by the pushrod performance conversion to 520cc but would prefer keeping to as near standard as possible.

Maybe I should have bought an es2 but my memories of the 350 were good..perhaps rose tinted?

Thanks for the advice.I suppose I should have stated what I had already tried.

I am wondering if maybe the cams are a bit worn as it has 95k on it,although definitely rebuilt.

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What year is your Model 50? 210 main jet should be OK. I would take a close look at the ignition timing. 38 degrees btdc (11/32" or 13.5mm). Should it be somewhat retarded it would make it seem sluggish.

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It is a 63 model..I have yet to check the timing but the gap is correct at 15 thou..I do not have a degree wheel or protractor at the moment..one on order, however I experimented with different points gaps to see if there was a difference but was not successful.

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Hi John

I have a 1960 slimline M50 and mine seems to go a little bit better than yours, ie it will pull 60ish on a slight incline in top, even though my compression is no where near as good as yours, I can kick it over very easily. Mine has a belt drive conversion, and according to Mike P is geared the same as an es2, ie 2/3 teeth more than a M50, this makes it nearly go as well in 3rd as top, but it doesn't cause me too many problems. the thing that improved my top speed slightly was making sure the ignition timing was as near as I could get it, and the carburation was spot on. By your posting, it sounds that you may beovergeared, engine sprocket shouldhave 17 teeth.

by the way your main jet is correct at 210! (es2 has 270).

If you are in the North of England contact me, or I'll see you in Italy!

Regards John O

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I have had a very similar experience with my ES2, after a full overhaul, the engine would not pull in top gear up an incline. After much hair pulling, I checked the valve timing, and although the dots all lined up as per book, I discovered some one in the past had fitted a side valve inletcam to increase the performance. It turned out, when I checked the valve timing, that the inlet was opening too early and that the timing dots on the cam wheel were one tooth different to the over head valve cams. I retarded the cam wheel timing by one tooth, and it was a different engine, pulling with ease up hills in top, where before it struggled.

Just a thought, as who knows what has happened to these 50 plus year old engines in the past by previous owners.

Paul.

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Very true..lots of fiddling and bodging will have taken place..As my wife hates me delving inside new purchases I am refraining from opening the timing case just yet..She thinks I do this as a matter of course and tends to mistrust my purchase as a result! Anyway,until my degree wheel arrives I cannot do much.

The report of 60mph on an incline sounds good,was the motor working hard?

Re 16h cams,I thought they were the same,maybe I am mistaken?

No trips to Italy for me however,I do not have a passport hence am trapped on this isle! And am not too unhappy at the thought in view of the parlous state of the world at present.

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Previously john_evans1 wrote:

......No trips to Italy for me however,I do not have a passport hence am trapped on this isle! And am not too unhappy at the thought in view of the parlous state of the world at present.

The world sure is a dangerous place. 1,775 deaths, 22,807 seriously injured, 194,477 total casualties of all severities. Gov. statistics for U.K roads 2014.

Important to keep things in perspective.

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No need to open up the engine to check cam timing. A timing stick down the plug hole and a feel of the inlet pushrod when the cam just starts to lift (stops rotating with finger), while slowly rotating the crank will let you know if something is amiss. Inlet just starts to open 5/16"b.t.d.c., and exhaust just starts to close 5/16"after. NOTE! these specs are for the 500cc, check your manual for the 350 models.

My inlet was openingover an 1"b.t.d.c. just being one tooth out, so you can easily get an indication of how the timing is.

16H cams have a slightly higher lift due to them acting directly on the valve and,I have read, a longer duration.

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Interesting tbeory on the valve timing but I doubt it is far enough out to notice by this method.It really needs dialling in properly with a degree disc.

I stand corrected re the 16h cams.I had always believed they were the same as the late m50 profile but lumpier than the earlier models.

Re the main jet,I am wondering if it was 210 or 270..whatever,the previous keeper stated he was using a substantially bigger jet as he believed it had more stamina with it..For some reason I thought a 170 was standard.

I will get to the bottom of things eventually,I do not have much room in the shed and have to move bikes out to enable me to work on one.

I appreciate the replies.I was beginning to think my memory was playing tricks re performance.It is no rocket but is a pleasant and unusual bike as there are not many around.Certainly not in my region. In view of this there was no one I could ask re performance etc.

One of Mikes conversions to 520 cc would be ideal if I can justify the cost against the extra urge it should provide..If it worked well I might sell my w800 as the norton would suffice.

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Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

The world sure is a dangerous place. 1,775 deaths, 22,807 seriously injured, 194,477 total casualties of all severities. Gov. statistics for U.K roads 2014.

Important to keep things in perspective.

Don't worry, I'm sure HM Govt. will be unleashing another 'hard hitting' road safety campaign or TV advert to make it all safer for us!

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Previously john_evans1 wrote:

One of Mikes conversions to 520 cc would be ideal if I can justify the cost against the extra urge it should provide..If it worked well I might sell my w800 as the norton would suffice.

I have a Wideline Model50, having also owned a pre-Featherbed version half a century earlier. Both reach mid-60s mph with pleasant cruising 50-55mph. The present one showed symptoms similar to those John mentioned when I bought it, particularly power loss on hills. This improved noticeably after rectifying a leaky exhaust valve seat, probably the result of an overtight valve lifter cable. However thehighly impressive compression claimed by John would seem to rule this out.

I replaced my original 1957 Model50 with a green ES2 in 1962 and the difference was so worthwhile. I was looking for a Wideline ES2 when I returned to biking a few years ago but found these to be hard to come by so settled for a Model 50. In the continued absence of the former I have thought several times of a Mike Pemberton 520cc conversion on my present Model 50. Whilst no doubt this will more than match the urge and top speed of an ES2,can anyone offer practicalfirst hand experienceon other aspects resulting from such a conversion ? Does a higher revving short stroke engine completelyloose the genteel riding and starting characteristics of a standard ES2 ?

P.S. Should anyone know of a nice Wideline ES2 being available, please get in touch. 01252 843216 (Hants)

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Thanks Pete.

Real world experience is worth such a lot..You have confirmed my belief that my engine is down on power. As you say,it is doubful that lack of compression is the problem..my timings were on a cold engine,when hot it is good but does not hold my weight as long.In fairness it iscrurl to the components to do tnis anyway.

I too fear the loss of a soft single if I went diwn tbe 520 route,plus I cannot readily revert to standard.Mike questions why I would want to but the truth is that standard sells best plus there are no insurace hikes..i was charged £30 more for a carrier and crashbars on my w800.

Thank you for he replies. Much better club in that respect than others I have tried. Most queries to other organisations elicit no response or have a lack of knowledge.

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I have been having similar problems with a 1951 ES2 down on power. Check your ignition timing and valve timing as suggested by Paul. It's fairly straightforward to do and you might be surprised what you find.

I have ended up with new valve seats as the old ones where very recessed, Mike Pemberton did the job and also fitted new valves, guides and springs as well as opening the inlet tract out to suite a slightly bigger carb I have. Very pleased with his work and he has been very helpful with advice over the phone and by email. I have also fitted a 16H piston to raise the CR to about 8.6:1 and a set of Mikes race cams. All performance mods but nothing that can't be returned to standard if I wanted to at a later date. I can see where you are coming from with not wanting to change something that cant be changed back... As much as I'd like a short stroke I wouldn't want to sacrifice my ES2 to get it.

Check the things that are free and easy first, you might strike lucky.

Regards

Andy

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Pete.

Timing checked today. Not by degree wheel but by using my old two stroke plug adaptor and dti.

It was fractionally out but not significant. I also tried the tip re checking valve timing by the same means and if the figures provided were accurate then it is fine.

Andy

My comment of returning to standard were surely partially explained by the benefits of keeping it original? From an engineering perspective the barrel will be larger,probably by 40/60 thou at tbe crankcase mouth. This could be shimmed back to standard but it would not be a good method to employ. A thicker cylinder liner would be the ideal. The point is that obviously anything can be remanufactured but at what cost? My bikes are a lifetime hobby not moneypits. If I spend 1500 or more on a 520 kit then that is how it would be forever more. I would not spend much the same to revert to 350.

Each to their own of course.No right or wrong,just my perspective.

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Andy.

My apologies..misread your text. I thought it said you could NOT understand why I would like it standard...

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Well!. looking outside the box, (engine, so to speak)

Things that come to mind now, after reading all above.

Restricted exhaust box/pipe,

Restricted air filter. (if fitted)

Restricted fuel tank air vent.

Restricted fuel flow to carburettor (blocked tank/carb/pipe filter)

Carburettor air valve not fully opening.

Extra 4 stone (24 kilos heavier!!) it is, after all, a 350cc.

Tyre pressure.

....I have pastpersonal experience to all of the above.....sadly :(

Regards,

Paul

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Paul

sadly the excess baggage is the only suggestion applicable. The fuel flow is good,though I have yet to check float height. Tank vent is clear..plus it does not stutter/starve. The throttle alive opens fully and the choke does not obstruct.

I have not removed the pipe but the silence!!!has no rear baffle and is a bit loud.it is however almost new.

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A bit of a fiddle with the carb this morning then an 80ml test run..downhill on the route I previously saw 60mph it is now 75 so I am on the right track.

Sadly the cruise is still 45ish. It is as if there carb is two stage with nothing in the middle transition.

I had a thought however.This was originally registered abroad somewhere..possibly now fitted with an mph speedo but kph drive? Investigation required..

What number is the mph drive unit please?

Thanks

s now 75

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If it was used at altitude the jetting could still be wrong if the problem is in the mid throttle range - it could be the needle and jet but I'm no Amal expert!

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True..something to check out when the wife is away! If I pull it apart so soon she will not be happy. I am lucky she tolerates my hobby,currently 5 bikes hence I do not want to push my luck!!

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If performance is dying n the middle - is the carb needle at the right height? If it is too lean you could easily do a lot of damage to piston and bore. Is the pipe very blued? That might suggest too far retarded.My old 16H was transformed by giving the ignition only about 1/16" (piston drop) more advance.And bicycle speedos are ridiculously cheap and accurate if you want a calibration check.

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Timing is ok..The pipe has now blued..it was new on purchase. Carb needle is in the correct position..It is a mystery but I will get there!

Thanks for the ongoing suggestions.

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John:

Please give us the following info required:

Carb model/size

Slide number

Main jet number

Needle number

The problem could relate to any of these as well as ignition timing, valve timing, valve clearances, valve and seat conditions, compression, etc, etc.

My '61 Model 50 will motor along at 60mph quite easily and will do a little more when asked of it even maintaining 60mph on motorway uphill gradients.

Let us know

Mike

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Mike

Just seen your post. From memory it is a 376. I need to double check the main jet size as it could be 210/270..no glasses when I read it!

today I entered the shed and found the tank was leaking fuel.I have now drained it and think the tap is the problem.Probably not ethanol proof.

i had a quick look at the needle and believe it to be bent so intend to order a new one plus the appropriate jet and gaskets.

Whilst the bike is very nice it is badly assembled.Nearly every nut and bolt has been found to be lose.On day one the brake rod fell off!

It is as if it had a dry build and no more.amazingly it has an mot so maybe things have loosened off but I doubt it.i really hope the engine is correctly assembled!

The seller told me he had two model 50's but this one was not to his liking due to the low bars.I formed the opinion he was knowledgeable,and probably is,but this machine needs a dose of tlc before I do much more riding.

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Another look at the bike today revealed peeling tank sealant,clearly old non ethanol type plus a bent/ scored needle. I have replaced this from my spares and fitted a 220 jet as it is closer to a standard 210.The original was 2.? Something..too worn to tell.

I have replaced the tap with an old enots type which has been wet stored in fuel for 30yrs. It does not leak at present but the outlet thread is smaller than the original hence I do not have a union to fit the fuel pipe.

If it were not so time consuming I would change the gear train on my lathe and make one.

The joys of old bikes!.

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John

I would still check the gearing,..... from what you say it will go to 60ish,( I assume that is in third,) and then when you change up it does not maintain the same speed, A classic sign of overgearing (I think.) I rev mine quite hard through the gears, but if it drops to below 50ish in top I normallyhave to change down to re-build speed up.....if required. Does anyone have information on M.Ps 520 performance ?

Regards John O

PS Where has the spell checker gone!

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John

I have yet to check the gearing but my last run yielded 75mph on a downgrade in top gear. All my figures relate to 4th gear running..

It is at a natural pace at 45,getting to 50 plus takes time and it does not maintain the pace unless on flat ground.

The higher speed actually came quickly enough,well for an old plodder anyway! I do feel it would go faster but I do not thrash my bikes and have never tried to attain 60 in third.No doubt it might but there would soon be oil loss from its leaky rocker box!

I am currently concerned by the tank sealant breaking up plus a stain at the front of the tank which suggests it now to be porous.If ethanol resistant sealant cures it then I will be happy,if not it will be sold..I like the bike but having paid reasonable money for it I do not want it to become a money pit. I believe acetate is the key to removing old sealant?

The Indian made tanks are cheap enough but with carriage,customs and paint I think 600 could easily be spent. Does anyone have experience of these tanks or alternatives..not the race type!

Thanks

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It does seem a bit early to contemplate selling the bike. With any old bike, you must expect to spent some time, and indeed money, getting it set up properly.

So many bikes appear on the market having had a cosmetic restoration. Internals untouched, paintwork shiny butloosely assembled and not fit to ride. Caveat Emptor!

Nonetheless, it's quite a satisfying job sorting out such a machine once you get over the initial disappointment.

Meanwhile, I don't have experience of Indian tanks. However a close friend recently bought one for his Ariel. It's a good solid tank, it fitted and it wasn't expensive. He did make the mistake of lining it with ethanol-proof sealant (not sure why - there were no leaks)and 6 weeks later the sealant was floating around in chunks.

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Thanks Gordon.

Totally agree about caveat emptor.Being 300miles away I relied on honest appraisal and pictures plus phone discussions.

Obviously the full truth was not given but nothing I can do now.

My issue is lack of space and too manyvehicles to maintain with ease..

I do like the norton and accept a degree of problems to be inevitable however for me the charm wanes when faced with a large and unexpected bill.

I bought it as my winter bike,not a summer play thing hence to find I cannot currently use it is galling.

It will be sorted but regrets are creeping in and when that happens I usually move things on.I have no time in my life for regrets and nor do I want to waste it working on vehicles constantly when I could be riding.

Maybe an odd outlook but one born out of experience and approximately previous motorcyles most of which I persevered with when I should have known better.

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Hi John

Keep the faith! Model 50s are what they are,

I have probably spent 3-4 k after buying mine about three years ago(from Waltham Cross area), and whilst I understand your pain, I now have an oil tight, reliable(touch wood) motorcycle. It was never intended as a road burner,just a good comuting bike.Check my posts re 'O' ring mods to the rocker box to cure oil leaks etc, I find my bike great for a relaxing rideround the Yorkshire Dales etc but realise its limitations. (infact am still looking for an 88SS for faster road work,and to this end went on a trip to Worthing to look at one.....550mls )but didnt buy!..............My grandson will end up with my bike, so I look upon the costspent slightly diferently than some people.

If you see a potencial bike, ask if anyone in the club is near and would look at it for you, in the firstinstance. it may save heartake later on.

Regards John O

Still havn't found the spellcheck!

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John

I do appreciate your perspective but I will not be rushing into a sale.I fully intend to try and resolve matters before going down the sale route.

I would however never spend significant amounts on it as it is frankly not financially worthy..note I say financially,note emotionally. If it was the latter I think I would still own most of my bikes!

Experience has taught me not to get too sentimental as it seldom pays. I currently have 5 bikes,3 of which are roadworthy and taxed etc. Any one could be moved on if I felt there was a need...anyone want a triumph 955 st sprint? Great bike but cripples me to ride..so it will go.

One thing I like about this club is the warmth and communication.I have not experienced that with other clubs including a big one which starts with V. Too pompous.

I appreciate the advice and offers of support so far. These are strong reasons why I should fix the bike.

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John

I agree with your sentiments, (if only I had kept all my past bikes) and thanks for your comments about the club, Ionly did about 2k on my GS last year, and only used it for continental trips, but did nearly double on the model 50, round my area albeit at a more sedate rate and with more coffee/tea stops!

Regards John O

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John

Your observation on the Bmw struck a nerve. I had a k75 on which I went everywhere,1k per month then sold it. The other bikes were getting no use,or developing faults which kept me off them!

The Triumph has been too uncomfortable for me since purchased 2yr ago but interest from potential buyers is nil unless I give it away.

My w800 is excellent,but the spectre of rust on the poorly chromed mudguards puts me off using it in wet weather.in spite of using acf from new, the underside of both guards was badly rusted;so after cleaning and treating they have been undersealed.

The 24 Enfield gets the occasional airing,maybe 1k per year but could benefit from new main bearing as there is some play at the outboard flywheel.

My coventry eagle remains a"one day"bike hence the norton was to be my winter" fix". Sadly it is transposed to my winter" fixit"

Nothing will get done until new year as I cannot find a suitable fuel tap locally.No point ordering one until the hols are over therefore I braved swmbo and partially stripped the bike for inspection. The clutch centre is notched so will receive attention via my files. The plates are new. Two clutch springs are coilbound,more replacements to order. The previous owner ran the primary case dry,using chain spray on the primary chain but neglecting clutch bearing lubrication. All for a dry garage floor..I can stand a leak.

Your o ring conversion is interesting,I assume they are on the rocker spindles but have yet to find the link to read more. A seal set into the top cover would be my quest but there is not enough metal to do this using my basic machinery. Most of my top end leaks are from the paper gasket.

I also need a helicoil for the tappet cover,one bolt appears not to tighten fully.Hopefully not bsc.

The distributer has significant end float which I will shim,I note the article in my copy of Rh which is useful.

The rear wheel has 1/4"play hence some bearings will be required,thankfully they are standard sizes not special sized bearings as fitted to an Ajs I one had!

My worry remains the tank..I tnink acetone is used to strip old sealant.If so I have found a supply but need to confirm before I do so. I note the club sells a sealant.Does anyone have good experience of it? I had intended to get caswell ot tapox until I saw the other option.Prices are similar so the club may as well benefit if it is good.

 



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