Clutch slipping?

Strip, wash and replace before spending lots of money.  If you replace corks, Radco recommended pressing then in alternately from opposite sides.

Do not strip the clutch and mix the order of the plates up. Certainly give each plate a clean but then ensure each is returned to exactly the same position before it was removed.

Mixing the order of the plates has the same effect as inserting new plates in between old. The respective surfaces will need to re-bed in with each other which takes time and will probably result in a clutch that slips worse then before its spring clean.

New brake linings inside an old drum behave in a similar manner.

When I clean my clutch I always intend to replace plates  in exactly the same position as found, for some inexplicable reason this never happens  and so  I  have to expect a bit of clutch slip  for a while ! . Phils advice is sound and very relevant if the clutch has seen a lot of use.

Steven is right, wash the clutch plates in petrol or MEK if you have any, on no account use paraffin or anything based on it like Jizer. I have seen people in race paddocks set them alight to burn the petrol/oil residue off  but they are in a rush so drying in fresh air will make them last longer.

I always dress the tangs and slots with a smooth file to remove any burrs which helps the clutch free/grip but does lead to it 'tinkling' when lifted.

I also meant to say check that you have sufficient free play on the actuator and the cable and that there is still some there when everything is at working temperature. 

My Grandad would just find an internal corner of two walls, place the front wheel in in it, drop the clutch in bottom gear until smoke came out from behind the chaincase to 'burn the oil off' and the Burman clutch of his Ariel never seemed to suffer from this maltreatment.

Just one thought, don’t forget to adjust it and make sure the rod isn’t too tight, and that the slotted spring retaining screws are not too loose, 

dan 

Nobody yet mentioned lubrication in the primary.

I know the 37 spec WD advises SAE 50 all round, but I find SAE 20 works well without slipping in my 16H.

By not thinking, I once topped up with a bit of semi synthetic 5/30 and this took almost all of the drive away.

I'm reasonably sure the problem is with the plates and pressure but getting the lubrication right is also important.