16h barrel honing

.. that's something I would have done by a decent machine shop. The danger with hand-held devices is that they can end up eccentric, barrel-shaped and out of line. But others may have different experiences.

I have used a local old-school engine reconditioner and the last bore I had honed cost around £15. I had it done because a previous owner of the bike had not allowed enough clearance when reboring.

Is it a new barrel or lined, and why do you need to hone it?

Do you want to increase clearance, or improve surface finish? There seems to be a lot of enthusiasm in some quarters for 'plateau honing'. Maybe consider a ball hone..which allegedly improves surface oil retention, ring bedding in, overall life etc etc..but removes less than a thou. Let us know how you get on! 

A lot of what on the internet are described as bore hones are nothing of the sort, they are only good for putting a different finish on the bore surface. They won't correct a faulty bore.They have spring loaded arms that allow the stone to follow the bores surface, taper and ovality as well! The afore mentioned ball hone won't correct bore faults either. 'Flexy' hones are another one.  

A pukka bore honing tool is made by Delpena or whoever makes them now. This type of tool will correct a tapered and oval bore. You will need a bore comparitor and the appropriate micrometer to calibrate it. The bore comparitor will enable you to check the bore for taper and ovality much quicker than using snap gauges and mike. They can be powered by a handheld drill but only a very slow one. I use a modified plasterers mixer that has decent handles and has a low enough speed. The handles need to be substantial as you have to resist the torque generated.

Unless you are going to use the equipment more than once its probably more economic to get a good engine reconditioners to do the job for you