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Jubilee project

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Hi I’ve just joined the Norton owners club as I’ve bought this Jubilee  and I was hoping for some help to get it running and eventually looking a bit tidier, It’s got good compression so not seized up.

I have some basic knowledge of mechanics but not enough for this job but willing to learn,  Basically the first issue I’d like help with is to get a spark, What are the basic requirements it needs.

Theres no switch anywhere other than that on the headlamp,  As you can see from the pictures it has the coils and points and a few wires here and there but no battery, does it need one to get a spark?

Would appreciate any help on this

many thanks 

Gary

 

 

 

 

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Gary,

Welcome to the club. You have a nice challenge there. I suggest you get a good owner's manual. I think there might be one available from the club document repository. You really need a wiring diagram to see how things work together.

The alternator provides the power when the engine is running but you need a battery and voltage regulator to supply the coils that generate the spark. The points determine when the spark is produced for each cylinder. The alternator charges the battery.

Looking at your photos I would recommend in due course a new wiring harness (available from NOC shop) a modern voltage regulator and, if you can afford it, modern electronic ignition to replace the points.

Lots of help is available from members.

We like photos of the progress of the restoration as well.

Dennis 

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Not the manual but very useful information from the club library. The Lightweights compendium.

https://www.nortonownersclub.org/html/archive/rh/lt1/index.html

Dennis

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Gary,

There were some changes during the life of the Jubilee so you need to know what year your bike dates from. If you don't know, the Records Officer will help you determine that from the frame and engine number.

See the 'Records' tab at the top of the home page.

Dennis

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Dennis,

Thank you for your kind advice,

The bike is 1962 by the way,

I have seen the manual and wiring diagram and  i,m  slowly getting my head around how things work, but arnt sure which way to go in regards to the electrics, 

Like yourself most people on this site forums suggest electronic ignition but others have said just try and get it going with what you,ve got,

I will get a 6 volt battery and a wiring loom to start off with, Would I need a 12 volt battery if I go down the electronic ignition path making a new 6 volt battery redundant ?

Many thanks

Gary

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Electrically there is a number of questions to answer for your self at this point. If you are going to keep the bike and use it, 12V and electronic ignition would be best. If you just want to get it working cheaply then stick with 6V and originality. The original machine did NOT have a regulator (but it will need one for 12V). The original wiring loom is for 6V it can be used for 12V but several items will need changing. (or for 12V a fresh rewire is recommended I can supply the wiring). At this stage ignore the alternator. It is the last thing to worry about. But keep the two Wipac coils even for Electronic ignition. If you just want to 'get it going' then a carburettor would be a good start! Perhaps a petrol tank? Seeing its condition then road worthy is somewhere down the line. So having it running on a 6V battery 'on the floor' and a clipped on wire as an ignition switch is all you need to get it running. Fuller details of 12V and electronic ignition is on   aoservices.co.uk

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Thanks Alan

I,ll be back in the shed later to do some more tinkering,

Im thinking of just getting it going at first so I can here the engine is ok, so I will go with the originality option for now and then possibly do ei and will be in touch about that having seen your website,

There s a carburettor on its way and im cleaning rust out of the tank this week and also changing oils

So I would connect the battery + to the brown wire on the coil in the picture and the battery negative to the blue on the coil Is that right?

Gary

 

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Hi Gary

Welcome to the world of lightweight ownership! Where about are you in the world, there’s often a member nearby who you can chat to or even help!

Dan

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The wiring loom looks home made so the colours may not be correct. At the vey least you need to check a wiring diagram and trace the path of each wire. Also, looking at the rust on the coil connections, you will need to clean each cable termination to get a good electrical contact. This is especially true of the battery connection to earth on the frame. If you have a multi-meter or a battery and bulb you should check that each wire is not broken inside the insulation by checking continuity. As Dan says help from a friend is a good idea and a second pair of hands will help.

Dennis

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Hi Gary,

I have spare Jubilee parts lists and manuals, albeit photocopies, available FOC.  You could use initially and then decide if you want to "upgrade".

As per Dan's comment above.  Where are you situated?

Regarsd Glenn

In reply to by glenn_ivett

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Thanks Glenn

I,ve ordered an old manual ,

My email address is braddockgary67@gmail.com if you would like to send the parts list,

Happy to pay for anything needed of course,

Gary

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So I would connect the battery + to the brown wire on the coil in the picture and the battery negative to the blue on the coil Is that right? Not the way to go. The original wiring had a GREEN connection to both coils fed from the ignition switch, this could be the BLUE wire, this would be the battery negative (via a clip-becomes the ignition switch!) and the battery Positive goes to earth. There is no loom as such on this bike, just a few 'casual' wires, fine for a startup. BUT seeing the work involved and the condition is this recommended? How much water has been in the sump? 

Very important -removed the sump plate/filter and see what comes out? If it is mostly water based or serious sludge then do not run it, you could cause more damage. If it is mostly proper oil then maybe try a start.   Best of luck. (you'll need it!)

In reply to by alan_osborn

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Cheers Alan,

that,s saved some experimenting with the wires, 

The oil was good when I drained it so will hopefully be ok,

I,ll drain it again once ive got it running to get rid of any sludge.

 

 

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Ive now got a battery and have cleaned up all of the wires and connections,

The bike already had a switch on the head lamp (which I presume was the ignition switch)with a purple wire which I presume went to the battery negative, well thats where ive put it, and 2 blue wires which go to the coils (Pictures attached)

I earthed the battery positive to the frame

Is this the basic configuration of wiring to get a spark ?

Any advise appreciated 

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Hi, make sure ignition points are gapped properly and clean(points looks suspect in latest picture)as well as any wire ends where corrosion is evident. A prior picture shows corrosion on blue wire to upper coil. Good luck with the initial startup -Pat

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Cheers Pat I’ve now got a spark on one plug, on inspecting the other lead and coil I noticed the contact in the coil had broken off so the lead wasn’t connecting,so I’ll get a couple of coils this week if I can find some.

the points cleaned up alright so I’ll stick with them for now.

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You won't get Wipac ignition coils. Lucas (type) will have straight end terminals which are a nuisance under the tank. Spending money on coils at this stage is potentially a waste of money. Suggest an enquiry within the club if any ones has a Wipac 6V.

Stick with a pair or 6V Wipac if you can. Your last picture doesn't show any broken wires. But the Blue wire is still corroded, remove, and reconnect would be useful. 

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The 6V coils on the Commando (and Bonneville) will do the job ok ( I sell them) but a new pair will cost you £50 at least. The Lucas coil has its HT terminal coming straight out it will work but the HT lead becomes awkward. Suggest you pursue a pair Wipac through the club or even flea bay. The Wipac was used on Bantams as well. can you 'bodge' the broken original, you won't want to use it on the road, just make a connection to the HT connection.

Sound job Alan how much? It’s the bottom one , don’t know if that makes a difference, it’s got a V on the end of it, It won’t mend there nothing to solder to.   
 

braddockgary67@gmail.com 

I bought that one and another whilst it was available and they work fine thanks for the heads up though Patrick.

 

 

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Does anyone know the correct chain for the jubilee? My 62 project doesn,t have one,

I have seen an earlier post on chains which states 121 links 1/2 x 5/16 which is a 428.

I have found this one onb ebay RK428 HSB drive chain 428x 122 links

Many thanks

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Thanks for that yes I bought one from a chain man at Newark so all is good 

 

 



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