Dragging clutch

Assuming all else is right, before you start the bike, pull in the clutch lever and  work the kickstart a few times to ensure that the plates aren't  sticking  together, never does any harm.

Hello Goran,

It would help if you mentioned which bike/model you have. Does it have a laydown, dolls head or AMC gearbox? Conventional clutch or diaphragm spring clutch etc.

Without knowing this it will be difficult to get you a clear answer 

Regards, 

George. 

How badly does it drag? They pretty much always drag enough to spin the rear wheel on tickover after starting on the rear stand, but not usually enough to affect gear selection.

Too much oil,  buckled plates, poor adjustment ,  drum flopping about on slack bearing.notched hub, tight chain 

...sticking cable, wrong hand lever fulcrum, bad worm in the scroll, wrong arc of operation of the   actuating arm.

Badly routed cable and i found on a 99 with a heavy clutch action was the adjuster that screwed into the box outer cover was too long and interfered with the operation (basically the operating arm was halted mid travel as it came up against the adjuster screw)

t cant  answer that one, but I found 3--4  thou clearance so i fitted new plus one thou rollers and removed 2 thou clearance. that helps to restrict  the amount of wobble the clutch body has when the clutch is lifted. A good clutch is dependant on many factors and a  collection of seemingly insignificant small improvements add up to a satisfying snick into first gear , (well----most of the time ).

It could be excess end float in the box.  I'd have to look it up to remind myself.  Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.  There are two potential places.  The sleeve gear/clutch end float can grow when the bronze thrust washer between 4 and 3 gets worn. The clutch then moves too much.  And/or the first gear pinion on the main shaft has the shaft end float controlled by a pen steel washer.  The WD16H manual gives gearbox maintenance instructions, although I think not actual end figures.  (Nowadays everyone loves numbers, but that used not to be the case!).

The bronze thrust washer is only accessible after the clutch is removed.

that thrust washer is often worn. Easy to check by truying to move the clutch body in & out - there should be just perceptible movement. The other suggestions are also well worth investigating and don't need a gearbox strip.

My first Norton back in 1972 was a 16H that had about 1/8" end float due to said thrust washer. Neutral was impossible at a standstill.

The 3/4 thou drum bearing clearance was measured with a feeler gauge , I have a memory of having to mount the the clutch center backplate reversed to get at it ,but It was a long time ago ! .Oversize rollers were bought after a long search on the internet. I may still have the package  with suppliers details. Had to buy 50 rollers. The spare rollers will go in the Atlas when I next  "fettle" the clutch.