Scissor Lifts

Before there was hydraulic scissor lifts and lift tables, we had to make our own work tables to get decent ergonomics. Welded a rectangle of angle iron, 2 by 7 feet. Round or square tubes as legs. A lot of short planks fitting inside the angle irons. With help from friends got the bike on the table in early winter. When work done, got help again in the spring. Some of the planks could be removed when taking off wheels. Table also used for the speedway bikes, weighting less than 100 kg, for the weekly service needed on the JAP engines and clutches. And of course the chain removal for cleaning and fitting right sprockets for next race track. When working bikes on the floor, a one foot high stool saves your knees.

You may like to consider an Easy Riser (Rizer) lift which I have used indoors for my Commandos. It is very compact & can lift the bike well off the ground. There are a few Youtube videos on them.

I have found the Sealey MC4500 to be very useful. Lifts the bike by 0.5m, locks off and can be wheeled about if required. When not in use it can be stored upright in the flat position so it doesn’t take too much space. 
Quite stable as long as you strap or cable tie the frame to the lift

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sealey-motorcycle--quad-hydraulic-scissor-lift/

I prefer the lull length rising bench type, after my cousin damaged his CBR1000 by taking the front end off and having it tip over backwards on a scissor type

I have an older one, based on a hospital bed jack don't know what make.

Getting a lifting table that only gets the bike so high (say 15"- 20") might be too low 

Measure the height you need the bike to be, to be comfortable to work on. Unfortunately the higher the table goes to, the more expensive they are.

I copied the Handy SAM 1200 air lift table using a Hydraulic cylinder from a lorry cab tilt, It cost as much to build as a commercially available table (approx £450) but it does far more than the Handy. I used an electric hydraulic pump from a BMW tailgate to power the cylinder alongside the hydraulic hand pump as well. Mechanical lock that auto resets when the table is lowered. 7"- 42" height range. Onboard battery to power the hydraulic pump, removable cut out for rear wheel work, front wheel clamp made from 40x80 box so far more substantial. Table top press braked from 3mm steel. It has castor wheel attachments so when the table is lowered, with them fitted, it lifts itself onto the wheels, even with the bike on the table, so enabling the whole lot to be wheeled about. When one of our club members saw it in action he commented 'i'm eye level with the sump plug'      

...is a feature many have which can be useful.  I would not go too wide on the bed width (350MM)  if you are in limited  space. 

I had a wooden fixed  height one for years then "inherited" an old conveyor scissor bed with hydraulic lift which spoilt me.  Now have an "Elev8" hydraulic with all the features you mention plus tool trays to the side. 

It is so good for back sufferers as you can adjust to every work height you need relative to task by the touch of a button. Unfortunately I had the 500mm wide top but would be happier with a 350mm as I am in a standard domestic garage.

Cheers

Jon

I have used a sealey lift. Modern number equivalent appears MC365. Mine is about 15 years old. Lifted a 1972 t20r (probably heaviest bike of 4) 69 bsa lightning, 59 dommie and 57 bullet in its time. No problems with lift or supporting bikes. It has a locking bar when raised and is convenient height for my back as well. Front wheel clamps and never used tie-downs as never had any safety issues concerns to my mind with this arrangement Trust helps and good luck with search. Hugh

I have a full length lift but its drawbacks outweigh its benefits. A few worth considering..

In a small space, a vertical lift is better than mine which moves the bike forwards by an indeterminate distance

It has a smooth steel surface. Its not easy for one person to push the bike up onto it.  It's then not easy to lift onto its stand. Rubber mats slip.

Mine has no casters, so it's hard to move. And impossible to move safely if it has a bike on it.

It's just about possible to use it as a parking space in a crowded shed, but it's awkward.

The hydraulic jack must be pumped up slightly to release the locking bar. Then valved slowly down...which is not as easy to control as I would like.

Sorry not to be more positive.  There must be ones that have few or even none of the problems. And some might not be relevant (space bening one)

Be aware of the height you have available, no good getting a high lift table and the bike then lifting the roof off the garage! 

... the one Steve mentions and have found it invaluable especially when I had very limited space. It's true they neeed careful loading not to tip but in 10 years or so I've never actually had it fall over. I take David's points on the full size lift and they are one reason I went for the Sealey type. I find the height fine and have a folding chair to sit on beside it while I work on the lower parts while the tank etc are at the right height when standing.

If you have got the space get a full length one much safer I have got one I find it easy to use its got the height and its easy to move about ( castors ) and it maybe for sale as im getting a bit long in the tooth for working on bikes 

Made one out of wood.. yes there are drawbacks as one needs a plank and a friend to load and unload but it is cost effective..

John...looks like the Norton factory...very authentic...!

If you are unlucky that your Norton don't have a rear stand like John has, it can be an advantage to have a bench wide enough for a paddock stand.