Wideline Tank Mounting rubbers

I used 4 of these https://www.feked.com/norton-fuel-tank-mounting-rubber.html two at the front and two at the back.  I found that by moving them forwards or backwards, I could achieve an almost perfect fit and hardly need the strap once the tank is pushed down.  The beauty of these rubbers is that once the tank is fitted, you can't see any evidence of them on the top rails of the frame.

I have used Z900 Kawasaki tank rubbers for all my F/B frames. The Kick start rubber is also a good fit on the K/S

Main thing is that the rubbers are positioned so there is enough clearance to the frame everywhere. In the old days we made them of pieces of foam rubber, sometimes a couple of layers, hold in place with electrical tape. Took some time finding right positions and thickness. Nowadays I mostly use the RGM type, hold in place with tyraps. Though some places need two on top of each other. Tank to frame clearance shall be around 5 mm. In my experience, If less you have to know a good aluminium welder.

Just finding my way round a wideline 99, tank is off whilst I check the carbs out.

When I ride it there is a little vibration coming through the tank and so I am looking at how the buffers fit.

No obvious lack of clearance but the 1/2 cylindrical solid buffers seem quite hard.

Do any of the suppliers do a soft version -- more like Commando front tank rubber hardness?

Dear Members,

Over the years I have found the easiest support for my tanks has been to buy a length of approx 1” diameter foam pipe lagging and cut it with scissors to accommodate the various lengths on the horizontal frame members. There is usually a pre-cut incision length- wise so it is easy then to just fold over the top frame tubes. I hold it all in position by wrapping around some black pvc insulation tape spaced out accordingly.

Beauty of this arrangement is that you obtain continuous support over all of the tank bearing area and if you choose black insulation there’s nowt to see either. Also cheap: but not nasty.

Anthony Bolton

Dear Members,

I should have said 1”internal  diameter pipe lagging.

Anthony Bolton

I found that tank vibration was often due to the strap being not tight enough

Kevin, I have only ever used 4 rubbers on the frame tubes, 2 up the front and 2 towards the back.  If you shunt them them backwards or forwards you should be able to get a perfect fit.

As Paul says the tension is important.  I'm not sure pipe insulation is dense enough to support a full tank in compression with the strap.  Kevin's solution is what I have used; 4 rubbers   shunted around to get the correct line and clamped on with the strap.

Jon

RGM stock a non solid rubber tank support, see their part number RTM1.  This has more "give" than the solid rubber U section.  Worth a try.

I've found in an emergency that the yellow foam tubing used to protect scaffolding works, but doesn't look good!

Kevin, I take it you didn't add a spot of contact adhesive after you had found the perfect position for them? Maybe being a bit half-arsed :P

That one that RGM sells (which is 150mm long) will cut up to make 4 rubbers, mine are each about 35mm in length.

Picture of mine below but your positioning may vary, works perfectly well and as I said above, I hardly need the strap as the fit is so good.