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Crankcase Identification

Submitted by john_hall11 on Thu, 07/05/2020
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Heavy Twins

Hi, I bought a collection of Norton stuff on Evil Bay in 2017 & have just got round to looking at it properly! On one 99 engine, the Crankcase number  has, (because I now  know a little more, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing), been re-stamped in non- Bracebridge Street font! Is there any way of identifying the cases from Internal numbers or "X" ray scan technology?

I am trying to be positive as a Life-long motorcycle enthusiast, BSA, Honda, Kawasaki 70s & 80s , BMW 2000s, now innocently sucked in, (lack of research on my part), to the now often seemingly "dodgy" world of  Evil Bay and 21st century, Classic bike Ownership!

Any suggestions appreciated!

Photo shows I believe authentic stamping of Engine type, Engine number not so

Cheers

 

John H

 

Attachments
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Submitted by robert_tuck on Fri, 15/05/2020

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I used to leave home in South London on Friday evening after work and ride my 88 flat out to Burnley Lancashire (before Motorways) to meet my Girlfriend and take her out . Stay in a local pub and return Sunday evening.  About 4 hours hammering it at over 80 mph.No one was overtaking me. Rain or dry. The 88 never let me down ,it was still young and strong like me. Now its old and a bit tired ,like me. Today I was up a big double ladder clearing the roof gutter,Knees knocking,sod this for a lark. Time to go into easy mode,like an old Norton.

Submitted by robert_tuck on Fri, 15/05/2020

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Obviously Ian ,you have not read John's question as to the reliability of Norton engines .If you want to change the thread to Electrics ,that's ok with me.

Submitted by john_hall11 on Fri, 15/05/2020

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Yes, Ian,  sorry Lionel mentioned them, I would never use LED's only as perhaps as a rider warning system in the daytime. I know they have advantages in energy consumption but having tested them out on Japanese machinery, a friend and I did a lot of night riding in 2018, after seeing how the his lights were slightly brighter maybe a good thing, however, the light seemed to be less focussed, than a standard  bulb with a filament of the Osram Night-breaker H4 variety! I found the Night-Breaker an excellent product.

 

We were both riding round Rural Kent avoiding wild life and pot holes and I consider the H4 I was running was safer then the Led headlight my friend was using. Plus he tried LED lights at the rear, great if you were behind him as in a straight line but viewed from any angle or at a "T" junction and their effectiveness diminished alarmingly, so for me and having experience of their short-falls I  will give LED's a miss.

 

 

John

Thank you John for your response and thank you for taking the trouble to find the post to which I refered. I don't know what happened but originally my post was closer to the post that I was trying to answer.

Submitted by ian_hay on Fri, 15/05/2020

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Robert, obviously if you had read the entire thread you would have seen Lionel Yexleys post 6 volt or 12 volt in which he mentions the possible use of LEDs. My post was in answer to this.      So obviously I did read correctly the post to which I was giving an answer.     

Submitted by ashley_cutler on Sun, 17/05/2020

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X Ray of a used rod tells you little, ie the current condition, and most probably if previously used, a rod it will be crack free. Most used rods with cracks are already usually in two pieces, a rod with a crack will not last very long at all. It will certainly not tell you anything about the fatigue life, you can tell more from visual appearance, distortion, hot running, forge fill, square strike etc. Most broken rods I have seen have signs of incorrect forging.

I would prefer to use an old rod that is in good condition than a poorly struck one.

As for forged versus billet, just check out where forged rods are still used, for strength and weight in most cases. Just a real pain to forge, and expensive to make in small numbers. 

Submitted by john_hall11 on Tue, 19/05/2020

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Hi Jan, I would rather use filament stuff, I don't like LED's. Thanks for the tip, but with a good modern battery drain and charging aren't such a problem I use Motobatt on my Kawasaki's.

I have seen his stall @ Ardingly.

I would look for a good modern battery to fit the Dominator and probably convert the bike to 12 volts.

 

Cheers

 

John

Submitted by lionel_yexley on Wed, 20/05/2020

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Any postings about lighting and batteries should really be on the Electrical Forum, which is where I brought up the subject of considering changing from 6V to 12V (then rejecting the idea) and the use, or not, of LEDs.  I'm with John in deciding to only use one as daytime running a I will continue with a PRS8 switch with its control of the alternator coils

OMG!  I'm on the wrong Forum! LOL!!

 



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