Electra wiring loom

Hello Bryon,

You probably already know more than most about potential differences between the Jubilee and Electra wiring systems as you have worked on both machines; I only have experience of the early 6V Jubilee and Navigator systems.

Are you certain that you have the correct wiring loom for the Electra? There might be some differences in the wiring around the switches. I know on the 1959 Jubilee there are wires (yellow, orange) linking the ignition switch to the light switch and some fault here might give you the problem you are experiencing. The wiring pins are staggered so you can't really put the connector block wrongly on to the switch but it might just be worth checking that it is securely in position.

You mention about turning on the ignition to start but it won't stop the engine when turned off. Will the engine start if you keep the ignition off in the first place?. If it won't start -no spark- when off then it has to be some sort of back feed from the alternator that keeps the engine running.

All Osborn, the electrical man, is probably your best bet to know for certain.

Patrick

Previously bryon_currington wrote:

Is it possible for a newwiring loom to be faulty! After restoring both a Jubillee and an Electra with new looms and Boyer ignition I still have problems. The Jubilee works fine not so the Electra. I did ride the Electra last summer at first thiking it was ok. The problem is you switch ignition on to start. With engine running switching off does not kill it when riding you have to stall it. The other clue is the headlight will only work with ig switch in off or emg not in normal on position . So to be clear while riding the ignition switch can be on or off or emg. The headlight only works with the ig sw in the off or emg There is a new headlight switch on the bike and I just bought a new ignition switch hoping this would fix it all parts are from NOC The ends of the loom are sealed so hard to check. what am I missing! Bryon Currington

hi bryon when I was rebuilding my electra I was advised not to use a new wiring loom firstly because it would need many alterations as I was using a pazon ignition with a new reg/rectifier and that the connections were not that good I was told to solder tails onto the switches with bullet connectors, and make my own loomthis i did by passing the ing switch in the head light but using a lucas key which I fitted in the side panel this has worked fine with no problems I have used 3 fused ccts at 30 amp and 2x10 amp for the lights and ing I can sent you the wiring dia if you would like regardstrevor

Previously bryon_currington wrote:

Is it possible for a newwiring loom to be faulty! After restoring both a Jubillee and an Electra with new looms and Boyer ignition I still have problems. The Jubilee works fine not so the Electra. I did ride the Electra last summer at first thiking it was ok. The problem is you switch ignition on to start. With engine running switching off does not kill it when riding you have to stall it. The other clue is the headlight will only work with ig switch in off or emg not in normal on position . So to be clear while riding the ignition switch can be on or off or emg. The headlight only works with the ig sw in the off or emg There is a new headlight switch on the bike and I just bought a new ignition switch hoping this would fix it all parts are from NOC The ends of the loom are sealed so hard to check. what am I missing! Bryon Currington

The ignition problem is easy-(assuming original wiring) the output from the rectifier (alternator) for charging feeds into the ignition switch on a BROWN wire which is doubled to another BROWN and a RED to the ammetter. This switch connection is very close to the DK GREEN iognition feed so a short within the socket/plug could cause this, but the ignition ie battery drain would be on all the time, but the later Boyer systems 'go to sleep' when nothing running so the ignition being permenatly on could go unnoticed.

But the real reason for this fault is that the output from the rectifier is feeding the ignition circuit all the time, so every good chance the fault is within the ignition switch area.

The lighting and ignition switches are identical only the knob changes and the plug hence the wiring would be for the other job.

I can't comment on the lighting switch problem at such a distance though. But Trevor was right, once you have fitted Electronic ignition and a modern reg/rectifier then the orignial loom becomes a nightmare. Start again. I do sell a wiring kit and I can advise how to deal with the lack of decent sockets for the switches. After all the sockets and interchangable switches was nothing more than a manufacturing advantage, nothing to do with a good way of doing things.

Al Osborn.